Pamela Hordern, Faculty of Education, Monash University, Melbourne, AUSTRALIA.
Dr Kathy Lynch [HREF1] , Senior Lecturer, Caulfield School of IT, Faculty of IT [HREF2] , PO Box 197, Monash University [HREF3] , Victoria, 3145. Kathy.Lynch@infotech.monash.edu.au
Embroidery has been a long standing cultural tradition, and an art that is learnt and continued to be learned throughout life. It has been an integral part of family and social life for hundreds of years, and has been essential for intergenerational transfer of culture, memoirs and skill; for expression of creativity; for utilitarian purposes; or simply for leisure activity and social contact. The techniques of embroidery have been, almost, unaffected by mechanisation and changes in technology.
With the ever advancing development and use of technology, it can be pondered, has this technology any benefit or add-value to the development of not only the traditional learning of skills associated with art but also in the support of life-long learning and the development of communities of practice? These questions have been raised in circles such as the NSW Embroiders' Guild, but without empirical evidence, one can only rely on anecdotes. In searching for answers, one embroiderer took on the challenge.
The research was conducted as a case study of a purpose built virtual learning environment (VLE). The environment consisted of a guided embroidery lesson, together with synchronous and asynchronous online communication facilities used to encourage and nurture the emergence of a community of practice of embroiderers. The common goal of the participants was the creation of an embroidered sampler through an online learning experience and virtual connectivity. Hordern and Lynch (2006) outline the process and underlining theories used in developing a VLE for the construction of a virtual learning community. Further enhancement to this study was an investigation of the VLE as to the benefits and value-added of the VLE in developing participants' embroidery skills and the development of an embroidery community in a technical and very new, and often alien, environment.
The paper presented here is a report of a case study into the use of web technologies for the development of embroidery skills, and through this, a creation of a community of practice of online embroiders (or e-stitchers), together with the underlying support of life-long learning. The findings show that the participants acquired both embroidery and computer skills; experienced connectivity within the fledgling community of practice; and expressed empowerment and positive synergy from the opportunity of applying their competence with embroidery to acquire confidence with the new technology they experienced, and enhanced life-long learning practices.
In the ever encompassing technology-rich environment of the new millennium, the age old art of embroidery needs to thread this new technology into its fabric. This presents the possibility of weaving computer literacy and digital technology to cross spatial, temporal, cultural and socio-economic boundaries to share a passion for embroidery and to create a virtual community of practice for embroiderers as they continue the lifelong journey of learning.
The study presented in this paper explored the connectivity within a community of practice for embroiderers together with the potential to enhance their embroidery skills and community experience using digital technology. Digital technology is the future of communication; storing and sharing of information; and even recording of the visual arts. There is possibly a natural progression for embroiderers to engage in creating virtual communities to promote and continue their lifelong learning and sharing the art of embroidery.
The focus of this paper is to present a discussion of the findings from this research and its implications to lifelong learning, online and virtual connectivity. Hordern and Lynch (2006) presented a paper reporting of the earlier stages of this research project. In that paper it was communicated the development of the VLE with details of the research strategy and the common goal of the participants creating their unique embroidered sampler.
Embroidery has been regarded as a female dominated activity in the literature (Bracey 1993, Dean 1981, Isaacs 1987, Wajcman 1991). In 1906 Grace Christie wrote:
Every woman can sew, and it is with little more than a needle and thread, which she habitually employs, that the greatest masterpieces of the art have been stitched. (Cited in Isaacs 1987, p.128)
Embroidery was considered an appropriate feminine activity, along with rearing a family and housework. Engagement in embroidery over the past fifty years has dramatically been reduced as women have moved into the workforce; little interest is shown in dexterous accomplishments; and leisure pursuit's focus on TV and outside the domestic realm. Embroidery skills were once passed along generational lineage, but today many modern women lack time, patience and inclination for hand embroidery.
Embroidery had bonded women in sewing circles within cultures for hundreds of years. The challenge of the modern embroiderer is to harness today's technology to spread the knowledge and skills of embroidery. It is now time to create e-sewing circles to bond women across spatial, temporal and cultural boundaries. The Internet has the power to achieve this cross-boundary bonding.
According to Hawthorne and Klein, women have an affinity to computer technology because 'connectivity is at the heart of feminism' (Hawthorne and Klein 1999, p.5). It is a strong possibility that the feminine activity of embroidery would be suited to a learning situation involving computer technology. Pollock and Sutton suggest that 'the Internet offers the possibility of working in ways feminists have often aspired to…those of inclusion, diversity, and transparency in an open process which can lead to action and change' (Pollock and Sutton 1999, p.33). 'Nattering on the Net' is the catchy title to Dale Spender's book on women, power and cyberspace, (Spender 1995) and indicates the potential of the Internet as a powerful female communicating, and hence educating, tool of the future.
The inference that compatibility existed between feminine qualities and computer technology, lead to the seeking of information and guidance on developing a learning environment online to accommodate embroidery.
In developing a learning environment for embroidery, interactivity in the forms of online communications was paramount to the learning experience. There are many references in the literature to assist in developing a VLE and guidance to incorporate communication technologies into the learning experience. Mercer (2003) suggests synchronous communications simulate face-to-face interactivity with an 'increase in energy level…[and]…sustained attention' (Mercer 2003 [HREF4]). Bober and Dennen (2001) promote asynchronous communications to allow learners to 'pace themselves … reflect deeply…follow several threads at once…selectively "listen" to peers' (Bober and Dennen 2001, p.245). According to Chou (2001) successful learning online must incorporate into the VLE 'context, construction, collaboration and conversation' (Chou 2001, p.75) for learning to be effective. This is reflected in the five-layered model for online learning proposed by Salmon (1998) which evolves through the following processes: 'access and motivation; online socialization; information exchange; knowledge construction; and development' (Salmon 1998).
The learning experience should be enriched if, in addition to acquiring embroidery skills, the embroiderers would develop a sense on community bonding from the interactive learning experience. The online learning experience should be enhanced if a community of practice of embroiderers emerged as a result of engagement in the VLE. Communities form when people come together with a common purpose, and contribute to the desire for lifelong learning. Communities of practice are described by Wenger, McDermott and Snyder (2002) as ‘groups of people who share a concern, a set of problems, or a passion about a topic, and who deepen their knowledge and expertise in this area by interacting on an ongoing basis' (Wenger, et al. 2002, p.4).
Though the literature on online learning is vast and varied, with little related to embroidery, learning and sharing has a commonality of purpose and the principles of clarity, support and achievable goals are at the crux of all online learning environments. The basic principles for learning online were cogitated when authoring the VLE to study learning embroidery online.
This research was concerned with harnessing the connectivity of web-based technologies for the development of embroidery skills, through which an online community of embroidery practitioners (or e-stitchers) could emerge, with the underlying support of life-long learning. The purpose of the learning environment was to provide connectivity and practical support to embroiderers who were generally not able to meet face-to-face with any regularity due to spatial and temporal boundaries. A virtual learning environment was developed to enable the participants to experience, and therefore make comment, on being part of an online learning experience for embroidery. Online communication technologies were utilized to promote interactivity and connectivity to the embroiderers participating in the VLE, and the data from this was used explore the emergence of a community of practice.
A case study strategy was adopted as the methodology because a real-life situation was an appropriate context to study learning embroidery online. According to Yin:
…case studies are the preferred strategy when “how” or “why” questions are being posed, when the investigator has little control over events, and when the focus is on a contemporary phenomenon within some real-life context. (Yin 2003, p.1)
Each facet of Yin's definition can be related to the aim of this research. First, questions such as ‘how' or ‘why' can be ‘posed: how can embroiderers learn skills in a non-face-to-face environment?; how can the technology of the Internet enhance the learning experience?; how can participants communicate online to effectively learn?; why do learners gravitate to form communities?; what are the pros and cons of learning embroidery online?
Second, the researcher has ‘little control' over the learning experience, but can set up the learning environment to be user-friendly, provide support scaffolding, encourage interactivity and facilitate feedback. And third, learning embroidery by Internet technology is both ‘contemporary' and in a ‘real-life context'.
Case studies are generally associated with qualitative data (Miles and Huberman 2000, Neuman 2000, Wiersma 2000, Yin 2003) . In this case study, the data collected had both qualitative and quantitative elements. The bulk of data collected was qualitative, in the form of text-communications from emails, forum posts, electronic journals entries and electronic questionnaires (open ended questions). Embroidery samplers were also treated as data collected, and these were collected in the form of digital images. However, some data collected was in quantitative form, such as number and type of online communications, and the amount of time communicating, plus Likert scale questions in the electronic questionnaire.
The ‘unit of analysis' defines the ‘case' (Miles and Huberman 1994; Yin 2003). In this research, the unit of analysis is the purpose built virtual learning environment (VLE) which is called the Connectivity of Threads website [HREF5]. The focus or ‘heart' (Miles and Huberman 1994, p.25) of this case study is the participants; the participants' interaction with the VLE, and the participants' interaction with other participants. The ‘boundary' (ibid, p.25) to a case study defines the limits or edges of what is included in the case study. In this case study, any interaction within the VLE is considered within the case. One limiting factor to the case study is the timeframe for the collection of data. Logistically, it was only feasible to collect data for three months.
This case study had an element of participatory action research (Kemmis and McTaggart 1988) . A distinctive feature of action research requires collaboration of the members of an ‘action research spiral' (ibid, p.11). This requires the sequence: plan, act/observe, reflect revised plan, act/observe, and reflect. According to Kemmis and McTaggart, this sequence ‘allows practitioners to act more effectively over a greater range of circumstances…to empower them…to realise a new potential…and improve their understandings and action in the situation' (ibid, p.12). In this research, the VLE was participatory and inter-active. Changes were made to the VLE in response to data collected from the participants. It was not a true PAR as the action was not cyclic, but acted upon as deemed required by the researcher and not in collaboration with the participants.
The development of the VLE for the Connectivity of Threads has been described in Hordern and Lynch (2006). Excerpts from this paper, which describe the background to the VLE and its fundamental influences, are included below to enable the reader to gain a more comprehensive understanding of the context of the research.
An online learning environment was constructed to enable participants to learn and explore embroidery techniques from the one common source. It also allowed for the inclusion of data collection instruments (questionnaire and communications) required for the research.
The VLE consisted of an embroidery lesson in the technique of creative canvas embroidery. The format of the VLE was a series of online learning instructions, a plethora of inspirational material, and interactive opportunities with other participants and the facilitator. The online communication facilities utilized were email, e-journals, a discussion forum, a chatroom and dynamic daily update of interactivity on the VLE.
The following features were paramount as scaffolding for the VLE to support the formation of the fledging virtual community and to maximize the learning experience of the participants, and were therefore included in either the design of the VLE or embedded within the communications lead by the researcher:
The VLE was designed to be colourful and visually appealing, with numerous graphics of embroideries (see Figure 1.)

The embroidery images were for encouragement and for inspiration, and also to demonstrate the potential of the technique. Most pages in the website contained images. However care had to be taken not to make images too large and therefore slow to load as participants might not be patient with the Lesson loading and leave the site. This was especially a problem with slow Internet download times or timed payment for Internet.
There also had to be balance between inspiring students with exquisite embroideries, and not intimidating students with difficult examples to achieve. The content of the instructions were logical, positive, encouraging and achievable. Most important feature of the VLE for it to be was user-friendly and easy to navigate.
The online communication facilities were email, personal e-journal, discussion forum (see Figure 2), a realtime chatroom (see Figure 3), daily News update, an online questionnaire, and a background facility. All of these facilities were available via the VLE.
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Figure 2 Screen capture of the Discussion Forum |
Figure 3 Screen capture of the RealTime Chatroom |
The participants in this study were required to have at least minimum computer literacy, minimum embroidery skills, and access to the Internet. No other requirements, except enthusiasm were deemed necessary.
To recruit participants, two avenues were initially sourced. Firstly, a brief notice on three public forums requesting participants to reply with expressions of interest. Secondly, emails were sent to known embroiderers. They were requested to reply, if they were interested, and details of the study would be forwarded. A third source of participants emerged unexpectedly, from ‘snowballing' (Neuman 2000, p.196) from interested people to others.
Anonymity was an important element in this study. A model to obtain anonymity was adapted for this research, where the participant created an identity unique to the VLE through the use of a pseudonym. All data collected was tagged with this pseudonym.
The data was stored, sorted and collated into a database. It was reduced and displayed, then common themes, patterns and trends were identified. A coding system was devised to collate content of the communication data, with reference to the data collection instrument (email, forum, chat, e-journal, e-questionnaire); the date of the communication; and the pseudonym. For example, E-55-Ka would decode as sending an email (E), on day 55 of the study by the pseudonym Katie (Ka). The quantitative data was displayed in graphs and tables. The qualitative data was categorized, based of the body of literature reviewed for the study.
The VLE was launched in August 2004 and available to collect data for 3 months. Twenty participants registered to take part in the study. The anonymity component of participant was very successful with no participants acknowledging prior acquaintance with other participants. This achieved the 'egalitarian' (Papert 1996, p.71; Spender 1995, p.229) quality of the participant's interaction with the each other on an equal footing.
The demographics collected in the study showed that a typical participant was female, over 60 years of age, resident in rural or regional Australia , retired, with over ten years embroidering experience, and less than one year's computer experience.
Embroidery as a female dominated domain was certainly reinforced by this study, with only one male participant. However, as interactivity was by pseudonym, and the gender not divulged to the community, and the community was unaware that a participant was male. Gender did not surface as relevant or indicative of interactivity, although gender issues did get mentioned in content of some communications, mainly in respect to the time management of domestic and family commitments.
Difficulties with engagement with the VLE were mainly related to technology. These problems ranged from lack of technological skills; technophobia; slow Internet connection; paranoia re virus contamination, and a simple lack of experience with computer technology. Interestingly, technical difficulties seemed to increase some participants' engagement with the VLE and determination to achieve their goals.
The data collected in the study was both qualitative and quantitative. The qualitative data was collected from five different types of text based online communications technologies. These were: Background data from a text box on the VLE; emails to the researcher; electronic journal entries submitted via the VLE; topics and replies posted to the Forum; and responses to the electronic questionnaire. Quantitative data was extracted from the qualitative data and in addition, quantitative data was collected on participation in the Chatroom. All data collected was connected to a pseudonym for collation and analysis.
Visual data was collected from images of the embroidered samplers in progress, and finished samplers. The creation of the individually designed and embroidered sampler was the focal point of the study – not the quality of the embroidery, but the process of creating the artefact.
The online communication technologies were used in differing periods over the studies duration (see Figure 4). Emails were steady through the study; e-journal entries and chat also increased steadily as the study progressed. The interactivity in the discussion forum increased very dramatically in the second phase of the study to almost four-fold the other types of online communication facilities.
There were six types of interactivity identified in this study. These were participant to content; participant to technology; participant to self; participant to participant; participant to researcher; and participant to community. The interactivity varied significantly within three of the online communication facilities (emails, e-journals, the forum); this is presented in Figure 5.
With emails to the researcher, interactivity relating to participant to researcher predominated (52%) with utterances such as Katie's email: ‘have attached a copy of my plan and design' (E-55-Ka). There was 32% of emails which referred to technological enquiries to the researcher and 12% on content questions or comments.
The Journal entries displayed 43% reflection on content (such as from Digistitch : ‘I do not usually select all my colours in advance so this was interesting…' J-41-Di). Participant to technology in the Journal was 23% (such as ‘I'm unwilling to download the mirc page (virus worries and all that...' J-76-WA). Self-reflection was 21% of the Journal (such as ‘Feeling quite excited and keen to get started now…' J-45-Pa).
The Forum was predominated by interactivity directed to the community (55%). A typical participant to community interactivity was ‘Everyone shows that they are proud of their work- just as they should be. Well done to all.' (F-S-89-Bo). The Forum also displayed a significant percentage of participant to participant interactivity (21%). An example was ‘Camelot. Thankyou for suggestion and will take your advice' (F-C-55-Br). The Forum had 12% participant to technology interactions where frustrations with technology were aired. For example ‘This is my first attempt at the bulletin board and I feel like a new kid in school' (F-E-39-Di).
The qualitative data yielded 380 text online communications. From this data, categories of utterances were derived: time issues, gender issues, fear of engagement with technology, frustrations with technology, and personification of the computer. A sample of the utterances in from each category are present here.
Time issues:
"…and now Ken wants to go out, so I am in a rush…thanks for the tip. I will get to it as soon as I get back home tonight…must go now or divorce is imminent!!!!!!!" (E-73-Pa)
"Housework can wait a few more years" (F-P-79-At)
Gender issues:
“Have started teaching my oldest GD [granddaughter] to do canvas work. She is 5 and really enjoying it” (F-E-39-Di)
"It really is a bitch, isn't it Threads, when work has to interfere with our life? (F-I-74-Ka)
Fear of engagement with technology:
"I will think it over what I want to say and word it properly before I put something on the Board" (J-10-Bo)
"Computer still terrorise me - but I will beat it yet" (J-47-Pa)
"I think most people, including myself, were quite apprehensive in communicating with participants on-line." (Q-1-Br)
Frustration with technology:
"Your chat is stuffed, so I gave up on it. Well, it might just be stuffed for me, but the effect is the same!!!" (E-80-WA)
"I found the place to register in the discussion section but I am bamboozled by the info they ask for. So will not bother. Good idea though if you can crack the code" (J-75-Ca)
Personification of the computer:
"I am still very keen to continue, but first I have to completely conquer this monster (Computer), which still at times evades me" (E-48-Pa)
"I don't know if I'm thick or what!!! I went to the chat room last week but alas no one was home. This week I can't seem to get through the door!!! There is a coffee cup in the corner but nothing happens, the screen just stays the same. Have I forgotten something?? I think the computer is misbehaving. " (F-H-76-Bo)
Connectivity with community:
"Hi Toby. Your design looks great. Have you started stitching yet? Keep us posted" (F-K-65-Ka)
"I was doing some multi-tasking and didn't see Patch arrive, it was too late and Patch was gone (sorry Patch). Next time, I'll pay more attention to the chat window." (F-H-70-Fr)
Empowerment:
"This is my first attempt at the bulletin board and I feel like a new kid in school." (F-E-39-Di)
"I have used the forum section and after few minutes clicking buttons was able to find my way around quite well. You can teach n old dog new tricks!" (J-76-Bo)
"While I have use the Web Stitch with great results, I'm having a struggle mastering this other kind of webbing But as the mysteries unravel much like that piece of thread that tangled, I have to take heart in the end result (still light years away, I feel), when I can zipp through the present labyrinthine turns and twists with as much pleasure as selecting threads for a new piece." (F-F-53-Ca)
Self-confidence:
"Although I have made many errors, I am reasonably happy with my canvas and with the fact that I DID IT, and whether the family enjoy it or not, errors and all, it is going to be framed and put up on the wall for all to see." (F-R-84-Pa)
"In spite of difficulties with getting with this medium, I get quite chuffed when I can do something to-day, that I couldn't do yesterday. Thanks to this experiment. Signed: A bit less simple." (J-68-Ca)
Visual data was collected in the form of graphics of the participants' samplers in progress, and finished samplers. The samplers in progress (Figure 6) were displayed on the VLE on a dynamic page created and updated regularly.
Another page was set up to display the participants finished artifacts. This was the Show and Tell page (see Figure 7).
Images were loaded onto the VLE to communicate participants' achieve and encourage others, as would happen in a face-to-face embroidery workshop. The visual data was a powerful communication facility, and the focal point of content of text communications. The Show and Tell page on the VLE gave the participants to opportunity to visually exchange and interacts with other participants.
It was evident from the quantitative data collected that interactivity was encouraged and a community of practice being built. This all enhanced the opportunity for lifelong learning to take place.
Of the online communication technologies used to facilitate inter-activity, the forum was most favoured because it was asynchronous and in the public domain for all to read. It was instrumental in community building because it promoted participant to participant and participant to community interaction. The forum also encouraged the participant to interact with technology, hence contributing to computer literacy and proficiency. As expressed by participant WA Wanderer "…the forum rocks…" (J-76-WA) and Bonbon with "You can tell an old dog new tricks!" (J-76-Bo) . Indeed the forum provided positive synergy which threaded enthusiasm among the participants.
The chat facility had technical problems, but generated a bonding through empathy from shared difficulties. This synchronous communication facility revealed its potential as a learning tool. However, for any new technology to be effective, it must be user-friendly (Bober and Dennen, 2001; Herring, 1999; Rheingold, 1995; Turkle, 1996), as evidenced by WA Wanderer with "Your chat is stuffed, so I gave up on it.” E-80-WA) and for Camelot , "…I am bamboozled by the info they ask for. So will not bother." (J-75-Ca).
The data collected in the utterances was serendipitous. The enthusiasm and effectiveness of the learning opportunity was rife. In respect of time issues, participants were keen to pursue the learning opportunity availed by the VLE and made time available in their busy schedules. Gender utterances supported that the female priority was family and household duties before consideration of self-interests. The perpetuation of inter-generational passing on of embroidery skills was evident in Digistitch's comment about her grand-daughter.
The participants also expressed fear of engagement with technology. Considering the age of the participants, this was as expected. What was unexpected was the enthusiasm with which they confronted their fear and stepped out of their comfort zone, to enhance their lifelong learning skills, albeit in an embroidery context in this VLE, but their acquired skills could be applied to their general computer literacy. Similarly, the participants vetted their frustration with the technology, but instead of giving up, they forged on and faced their techo-frustration. Again, the outcome of this determination was to confront their frustration, resulting in an improvement to their lifelong learning potential and computer literacy. It was interesting how the participants personified the computer as a 'monster' or 'thing'. However, they faced the monster and tamed it!
A very potent development in the utterances was the development of the fledging community of practice. As the interactivity grew, so did the connectivity between the participants. Many communications were directed specifically to another participant, and replies were posted for all to share. A very strong sense of bond was emerging.
Empowerment was very evident from the utterances, particularly as the participants completed their embroidered samplers and shared the images with the community via the VLE. The positive synergy was empowering to the community as well as on a personal level. The comments accompanying the images were speckled with adjectives of 'fantastic', 'rewarding', 'surprised myself', 'wow' and many other superlatives. The growth in self confidence from participating in the online learning experience was evident.
The participants were connected to each other, displayed empowerment, and an emergence of confidence in their computer and embroidery skills became apparent with the resultant sampler. The utterances confirmed that a community of practitioners was forming as interactivity moved from participant to participant towards participant to community. The common goal of achieving an embroidered sampler gave connectivity to the community as they shared both knowledge and achievement as they stitched. As the participants' interactivity increased, a sense of community developed.
The visual data displayed the passion of participation in the VLE. The digital images, shared by the participants, were inspirational beyond expectation. From the comments accompanying many of the images, the participants moved into the unfamiliar Internet arena, to share their embroidered achievement. The familiarity of embroidery gave them a comfort thread to lead them into the technology of the current millennium. The e-sewing circle had emerged.
Embroidery is a rich and versatile art through which practitioners can express their creativity by coming together in social groups and sharing their embroidery skills. From the data collected and analyzed in this case study, the threads of the embroiderer and the threads of the Internet's web, have connected e-stitchers in an e-sewing circle, with the potential to remove geographic, spatial and temporal barriers to avail embroidery to the global village. The Connectivity of Threads VLE has made evident a juxtaposition of the traditional art of embroidery with the modern technology of the Internet, supporting an opportunity for learning and sharing embroidery and computer skills, and contributing to life-long learning, in general.
This research has indicated the value in the virtual learning environment for the creative arts. Contemporary embroiderers use libraries, museums, or travel to different cultures, as inspiration for their designs. Using the Internet to learn and share would make possible a melting pot of cultures around the same virtual sewing circle. Virtual communities of practice could forge across any global boundary.
Embroidery is a gift. It is a gift to be able to express oneself creatively; and it is a gift to be able to inspire others. The Internet can provide the vehicle to share these gifts with all visitors to the global village, with its boundary free digital environment.
Our embroidery population is growing older and few young people have the time to take up the art. The future of such an expressive art is in the hands of the participants such as those who undertook this study. Their enthusiasm was infectious; their achievement with this new technology was impressive; and anyone who witnesses their communications and samplers' images could be nothing but positive about the future of this medium for learning and sharing the art of embroidery.
This research was an opportunity to explore the issues with learning and sharing embroidery in the context of modern technology. Setting up a simulated sewing circle is a reality; facilities for the e-stitchers to interact is as convenient as a touch of the keyboard in today's technological rich world; and the ephemeral community is vast, from which to source the e-stitchers. Everything is there - ready to launch anyone who's game into cyberspace for a life-long learning journey!
The authors wish to acknowledge Dr Bernard Holkner, Faculty of Education, Monash University, for his valued supervision throughout the duration of the study.
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